Introduction
As a guide, I run across many people and their stories about the West Coast Trail. One of my guide friends told me about when he wanted to run the trail. To get through in the one day, he had to start at about 4:00 am and be rowed across from the beach at the Pacheedaht campground to the trailhead. It was still during the season, so he just managed to catch the Nitinaht ferry and finished in 19 hours. Another friend decided to do the trail in February. They had to swim both the Nitinaht Narrows and the crossing at Gordon River because after September 30, the ferries stop running and the trail is officially closed.
The West Coast Trail ferry system is a lifeline that lets you navigate the trail without detouring miles inland—or swimming across (yikes!). In this article, we’ll explore key ferry crossing points, what to expect in terms of schedule and cost, and how to keep your ride as smooth as possible, even when dealing with moody coastal weather. Because on the WCT, missing a ferry can mean more than inconvenience—it can reshape your entire itinerary.
(If you’d like someone else to handle the logistics, Coastal Bliss Adventures can coordinate ferries and tide schedules, ensuring you don’t show up to a closed dock or a wild boat ride at the wrong time.)
This is the eighteenth article in our How To Hike The West Coast Trail series. You can access the seventeenth article in the series at West Coast Trail Safety.
Why Ferries Are Part of the Adventure
Unlike some hiking trails that circle a lake or wind through a forest, the West Coast Trail straddles a dynamic coastline where rivers flow into the Pacific. Historically, these waterways were both obstacles and lifelines, offering boat access but also cutting deep channels into the terrain. As the modern trail evolved, ferry crossings emerged as the safest way to shepherd hikers across deeper or faster-moving waters.
Each ferry ride is a mini break, a chance to sit back (even for a few minutes) and soak in the scenery. Yet it’s also a point of potential stress: miss the last ferry of the day, and you could find yourself camping on the “wrong” side of a river, or scrambling to rework your schedule. That said, many hikers come away calling the ferry crossings a highlight, chatting with fellow trekkers or local boat operators who share stories about the area’s weather, wildlife, and the occasional hiker mishap.
Key Ferry Crossings on the WCT
Two major ferry points stand out:
- Gordon River Ferry (Southern Terminus): If you start (or end) your hike near Port Renfrew, you’ll take a short boat ride across the Gordon River, or really, the end of the bay where the Gordon River comes out. It’s often your first or final taste of the WCT. The crossing is quick—maybe five minutes—yet crucial. You pay a small fee with your West Coast Trail backcountry fees, and it runs on a regular schedule during peak hiking season, though times can vary.
- Nitinaht Narrows Ferry (Mid-Trail): This one is famous because it’s smack in the middle of the route. You’ll reach the Narrows and find a boat operator who ferries hikers across to continue. Some folks rave about the fresh seafood (and beer) sold at the dock—a welcome treat if you’re sick of dehydrated meals. Just keep your wallet handy, as the food is a separate fee.
Scheduling and Costs
Ferry schedules mostly shift based on the whim of local operators, but they have agreements with Parks that they have to maintain specific hours. During the season (May 1 to September 30), you can expect regular service throughout daylight hours, but each ferry has beginning and end times for the day. But if you’re hiking early or late in the shoulder season, there may be reduced hours or even days when the ferry doesn’t operate at all if the weather’s too rough.
Cost-wise, the ferry fares aren’t usually exorbitant—think in the range of 20 dollars or so (Canadian) per crossing, though it can vary. These ferry fees are paid to Parks with your backcountry permit. But you will want some cash for the Crab Shack at Nitinaht Narrows. A pro tip: Save yourself at least one meal’s weight by planning on a meal at the Crab Shack. The crab is exceptional-it is fresh, live crab right from Nitinaht Lake. Stash some bills in a waterproof bag deep in your pack, so you don’t fumble around while others are waiting in line.
Ferry-savvy tips:
- Check official Parks Canada updates or local notices before you go.
- Bring enough cash or a credit card for both the Gordon River and Nitinaht Narrows crossings if you did not pay them online with your reservations. (these get paid to Parks Canada).
- Arrive earlier than you think you need to—lines can form on busy days-especially at Gordon River for the first ferry at 8:30 am.
- Expect weather delays—if it’s stormy, the operator might halt service temporarily.
- Embrace spontaneity—strike up a conversation with fellow hikers during the crossing.
Safety and Etiquette on the Boat
Some hikers underestimate the West Coast Trail ferry service, picturing a robust passenger ferry that can power through any storm. In reality, they are small, open boats that rely on calm conditions to navigate safely. Life jackets are not provided. Don’t be the person who shrugs off safety instructions; the local operators know these waters better than you do, and if they say the crossing might be bumpy or delayed, they mean it.
Board carefully, especially if it’s windy. Secure your backpack so it doesn’t tumble into the water. If you’re hiking in a group, you might have to make multiple crossings if the boat can’t fit everyone at once. And always follow the crew’s instructions—where to sit, how to position your gear, and whether you need to wait for the next ride.
Missed Ferry? Don’t Panic
So let’s say you roll up to the dock at 5 p.m. after a long day, only to find the operator closed shop at 4:30. Or maybe high winds forced an early shutdown. First rule: don’t panic. The West Coast Trail is all about adapting when plans go sideways.
It is not so easy to camp at the trail side of Gordon River. The last ferry there is about 3:30. Don’t push it, or you will be uncomfortable. Kms 62 through 75, and especially kms 70 through 75 are extremely rugged and slow. Best to plan on one km per hour in this section, so plan on a minimum of four hours to get from the Thrasher Cove junction to the trailhead where the ferry is.
Also, the north side of Nitinaht Narrows is not set up for camping, but they usually run their ferry until 5:00 pm. if you are travelling south and you are at Tsuquadra after 3:30, you should be looking for a place to camp. If there are Trail Guardians at Tsuquadra, you can ask them where you can camp for the night. The sound side of Nitinaht Narrows has camping and lodge facilities run by Carl and Shelley Edgar, and you will have to pay to stay there. But, they usually have a happy hour and a cooked breakfast menu!
It may throw off your schedule by half a day if you miss a ferry, but that’s part of the WCT experience—rolling with the punches. Use the downtime to rest, treat your blisters, and compare stories with other hikers who missed the ferry as well. Often, sharing that mini-crisis builds community. You’ll laugh about it later once you finally get to cross in the morning.
Conclusion: Enjoy the Ride
West Coast Trail ferry crossings may be just a few minutes of your entire trip, but they can leave a lasting impression. Whether it’s the short ride across the Gordon River to mark the start of your journey or the scenic jaunt at Nitinaht Narrows where you might snag a fresh bite to eat, these moments remind you that the WCT is as much about the water as it is about the land.
So don’t treat the ferries like mere obstacles to overcome. Embrace them as part of the trail’s character. After all, this route was once a lifesaving network for shipwreck survivors, and now you’re cruising across the same water that once posed a real threat. It’s a poignant way to connect with the coast’s rich history and realize that, even in this modern age, nature—not our schedules—often calls the shots.
If planning all this feels overwhelming, remember that Coastal Bliss Adventures can handle the nitty-gritty details, ensuring you don’t arrive at a closed dock or find yourself stranded without cash. But if you choose to go it alone, just come prepared, stay flexible, and relish the little boat rides that thread one epic section of the WCT to the next. Because at the end of the day, a ferry ride can be a welcome reprieve—letting you appreciate the raw beauty of Vancouver Island’s coastline from a whole new angle.
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Planning the ferries ahead of time sounds crucial. I can see how the weather could throw a wrench into things—can imagine how frustrating it would be to miss one and have to change your itinerary on the fly!